When I say “coolest”, I mean two things. I mean cool as in cool, and cool as in cool. 😉 Shades of gray that are well liked with cool undertones (as in not warm). It is true that the warmer greiges and beiges are what seem to be trending right now by that definition of cool, but those shades might not work well in your space. Many people think the solution is to find a gray paint that has NO undertones…. if that is you; you are out of luck. Cool grays will have either blue, green, or violet undertones. While some shades have more undertones than others; all grays will flash those tones in certain lighting.
Cool grays look excellent with white or black trim and cabinets. They also pair very nicely with dark wood floors. All of the grays I am sharing with you are by Sherwin Williams, and all of them do fall pretty close to the neutral side of cool. While the more pigmented shades can be fun; I recommend using them only if you actually want that color of wall rather than a gray wall… so keep in mind that it doesn’t take a lot of undertone to overpower!
Airy Cool Tones
These gray colors are light and airy and even a little stormy. Blue and Green undertones here, but just barely 😉
Earthy Cool Tones
These grays have a little more green (and even red- just not enough to tip the color to warm) in their undertones and take on a natural rocky, earthen look.
Grayer than Gray
What else can I say 😉
I hope this was helpful! If these cool grays are not your style- check out my blog 7 Of The Best Gray Paint Colors to see some warmier, trendier shades of gray or head over to Sherwin Williams to discover even more! When you book an estimate with us, our color consultant can help you choose the gray that is right for you! Click HERE to book an estimate now!
We all know “Best” is a subjective word…and yet we all use it when we are searching for a quick answer. If enough people called it the best, it will show up as the best, and is therefore the best. It is important to remember that just because something is the best, does not necessarily mean it is the best for what you want to use it for.
So what is the best for you?… When choosing paint colors, it is always important to keep in mind the rest of your stuff. If you’re looking for the best gray paint for your interior; you need to think about whether it needs a warm or cool undertone. What color are your cabinets? What color is your furniture? Your fireplace? Generally, matching undertones creates a more cohesive space but there are times when opposites make sense! But keep in mind; A cool gray will look blue against warm surrounding tones. A warm gray can look brown or yellow/green-ish against cool surrounding tones. Some gray paints have stronger undertones than others, but many of the “best gray paints” will have a more subtle undertone.
If you’re looking for the best gray paint for your exterior; the most important thing you need to consider how much sunlight your house gets and whether or not certain shades will fade more quickly than others. So now that you have been adequately warned about what is the “best”- lets jump into it!
All colors listed are by Sherwin Williams. Currently, in the trendy world, the “best” gray paint colors have a warmer undertone. If you don’t like warm tones; fear not! I will be writing another blog about the Coolest gray paint colors too 😉
1. Agreeable Gray
Who can argue with agreeable gray? Very agreeable is what it is! Slightly on the warmer side; you never have to worry about this gray looking blue against your wood floors or cabinets. This is about as greige as you can get, and has held 1st place for quite some time now! If you love this shade but are looking for a lighter tone, White Heron is an agreeable option ;).
2. Modern Gray
Modern Gray is a tiny bit lighter than agreeable gray, and also has more warmth. This color is borderline taupe but it is an excellent choice if you are looking for a bright, warm gray!
3. Repose Gray
Repose Gray is just a little bit darker and cooler than our first two options. Still falling in the greige category, this color can work well in just about any setting! Several of the deeper shades on this swatch are also very well loved. Mindful Gray (listed below), and also Dorian Gray and Dovetail.
4. Mindful Gray
Mindful gray is a step deeper than repose gray, but it is another excellent choice if you are looking for one of those warm greige tones! If your goal is to brighten up a dark room, you should probably choose the lighter Repose Gray; but if you have plenty of sunlight and you just want to add a tiny bit of warmth and coziness; this is your color!
Silverplate is even more neutral than the previous three shades, with very close to balanced levels of Red, Green, and Blue. It is about as middle of the road as you can get on the warm vs cool scale!
6. Light French Gray
Light French Gray has a slightly cooler undertone than Silverplate, but it still falls into the neutral category. It is not cool enough to look icy blue or purple, but it doesn’t have a warm feel to it either.
7. On The Rocks 62
On the Rocks is technically in the whites/pastels category BUT I think it fits pretty nicely into this list of grays. It is a tiny bit lighter than most of them and has a very subtle purple undertone to keep it cool but not too cool to be “cool”. 😉
In Summary Cool tones are not cool right now guys-I think you probably caught that by now- But I still love them! And remember, these warmer grays might not be best for your space even though they are the best! 😉 If you’d like to see my favorite “cool” grays, check out my new blog 12 Of The Coolest Gray Paint Colors! If you would like to explore more of Sherwin Williams Colors; click HERE!
Thanks For Reading! Click here to book an estimate with Sir Paints A Lot!
It can be both exciting and overwhelming to choose new paint colors for our home’s interior! Many of us feel we have way too many options and some of us don’t even know where to start…Some of us think the paint color will change the whole feel of the home, while the rest of us think paint is just paint…Some of us see painting as an opportunity to add character to our home, while some of us paint our homes to make them as neutral as possible…you know in case we decide to sell it next week…;) Surely, there is a balance to be found! Whatever your style or goals are for your paint project; remembering these 5 rules should help you out!
1. Work With The Colors You Have
Unless you are planning a full remodel; it is important to choose paint colors that work well with other colors that are in your home. Your cabinets, floors, counter-tops, furniture etc will all have an effect on how the color actually shows up in your home. Basic Color Theory tells us that color is perceived in contrast to the colors around it. Notice the difference visible in this simple example I made using 3 different colored pieces of paper. The gray is the same but you can see how it looks slightly different depending on its surroundings.
While the difference isn’t HUGE in this image, it is very common for people who have warm toned cabinets and floors to choose a nice cool gray that looks good at the store or even in a friend’s home; only to find that it looks blue or even purple in contrast to what is in their home. (Guilty!)
Because of how easy it is for simple things to alter the overall look; many people who LIKE colors would rather just choose white paint than deal with a color that looks different than they were expecting. Sad. One way to avoid this issue is to actually bring home several swatches of paint colors from the store and hold them up next to the other colors in your home.
If you Do plan on changing something other than just the paint (flooring, carpet, fireplace etc); find samples of whatever that will be as well. Don’t worry about matching paint colors to the couch you’re going to throw out in 3 weeks. 😉
2. Remember Lighting Changes The Color
The next thing to consider as you compare paint colors for your space is the lighting. Most paint swatches look very different at the paint store than they will look in the space you will be painting them. This can be for many reasons; such as the tones of your light-bulbs (incandescent, halogen, daylight, fluorescent etc), the amount of direct sunlight that comes in, and even whether that sunlight is morning light or evening light! The temperature or hue of the light (on a scale of warm to cool) makes a big difference in how you see the color overall.
While the amount of light changes throughout the day; so too will your paint colors. Most of us know and accept this, but it is still important to keep in mind as you choose the colors for your home. Here is an example of how the same color can look different in the same room because of different temperatures of light.
3. Trendy is Spendy
A lot of the times when we can’t decide which color we want in our space, we hop on google and find some article about “the best color choices this year” or we scroll instagram and see nicely curated pictures with certain themes and trends and we think “That looks Great!”. We all know how long trends last though; so if our aim is to be trendy and “modern”, it is going to be a continuous work. Some people like to always be renovating and changing up their space, and it is true that paint and furniture and all the things do not last forever and usually will need re-done at some point anyway, so it is not exactly a “wrong” approach. However, taking some time to think about what you Actually like is a more sustainable way of choosing how you design your space.
Choosing Trendy Paint Colors
If you choose the “trendy” color; do you also then have to toss out all your throw pillows and furniture because they don’t match the theme? Do you actually like the wicker baskets that go so nicely with the theme of every image that has the trending colors? Have you looked up how expensive those are?! 😉 Were you actually planning on re-doing your fireplace as well? The main question is really— Do you like the Color or do you like the Theme? How much of what exists in your home are you prepared to change, financially? And how much are you expecting the paint to do by itself? How often are you willing to change it because it has become outdated? Because it will.
Choosing Paint Colors We Like
Sometimes we do like trends and the paint colors attached to them; as they can be very like-able. Maybe we Do want to change everything; but for most of us the reality is that by the time we can get all the work done to make all the things flow together- it probably won’t be trendy anymore. This is a non-issue if we are slowly working towards a color scheme that we genuinely like, rather than trying to keep up with the trends. Trends can be a lot of fun and provide great inspiration and new ideas…Just remember not to focus on them so much that you forget what you really like!
4. Aim For Color Harmony
One definition of Harmony is “The quality of forming a pleasing and consistent whole”. We know that something is visually harmonious when it is pleasing to look at. On a scale of 1 to 10, with 1 being bland and boring, and 10 being chaotic and distracting, we should aim for somewhere near 5! We have all seen paint themes that fall on both ends of this spectrum… I tend to remember that chaotic ones more than the boring ones…but not in a good way…hehehe… While it is true that we all perceive things differently; a balance that is relatively harmonious is found near the middle. Somewhere between under-stimulating and over-stimulating. Harmony is found when the colors are both logical and dynamic.
When you choose your paint colors; it is easy to find colors that are harmonious with each other, but don’t forget to make sure they make sense with the other things in your home too! The best way to be pleased with your results is to consider all the parts of the whole! Choosing your favorite color might sound great…but it won’t be when it clashes with everything else. Picking white to avoid any of the complexities can be nice…but it can also be incredibly boring. Choosing paint color based on a trend can be exciting…and also way more work than you were looking for. Find the balance!
5. Hire A Color Consultant
A color consultant’s job is to remember all of these things for you. It is their job to tie together what you like with what you have. They will suggest colors that will be a better fit, and eliminate ones that are not going to work. They understand color theory and which tones will work best in your space. Often times, they will have larger color swatches or paint samples that they can hold up or paint on different walls. Painting larger sections of walls can give you a chance to see if you like the color throughout the day and how it will look different from one wall to another. This can help you narrow down which color you actually want based on what looks best to you at the time of day when it matters most to you.
All paint colors are subject to changing tones based on lighting and surroundings, but a color consultant can help you find the best color for you! They may also have ideas you haven’t thought of that could really bring new life to your space! If you work with Sir Paints A Lot, we provide a free color consult when you book a paint job with us! If you aren’t local; check around! Many paint companies have started adding this to their services as well! Happy Customers are the goal!
To Schedule an Estimate with Sir Paints A Lot call 541-600-2025 or click HERE to book one now! Thank You!
Ahhh. The anticipation of peeling off masking tape to see crisp, clean paint lines…. Only to discover that the paint has leaked through, the lines are squiggled, and the tape is stuck… in some places… Below I will share some dos and don’ts that may just help you avoid this messy fate!
First things first! There are several different colors and varieties of painting tape or masking tape. I’ll just go over the reason for this and which tape to use where!
White Tape: White tape is just your basic masking tape and it is commonly used to hang plastic or paper up around window sills or trim. It works well in most painting situations and can be found in different widths. It is not as highly recommended as blue; but it is much cheaper and works well in all the same situations.
Blue Tape: Blue painter’s tape has medium adhesion and is practical for using on slightly more delicate surfaces that you don’t want to risk damaging. For example; You are painting a kitchen and need to mask off the cabinets which have been painted in the past. Blue tape is less likely to pull up the old paint. If that were to happen; then you would need to repaint the cabinets too. Not a fun add-on if you were not planning on it! Go with Purple if you’re really cautious.
Green Tape: Green painter’s tape has very strong adhesion and is the best choice if you are relying on tape to get crisp, straight lines with no bleeding; especially if the surface you are applying it too is a little rough. It can pull up the material underneath, though; so use with discretion.
Orange Tape: Orange Tape is Basically white tape but stronger. The adhesion level is the same but the strength of the tape (how easily it tears or rips) is a little more heavy duty.
Yellow Tape: Yellow tape has strong adhesion that works excellent outdoors. It is waterproof and works great on exterior windows because it will not leave any residue which would later collect dust. Nobody likes dirty windows…
Now here are some tips for How to use masking tape; How to not to; and a few bonus tips at the end!
Clean the surface you will be masking first. Your tape won’t stick to dust….well, scratch that, it will! Dust won’t keep your tape stuck to the wall though!
Apply your masking as straight and smooth as you can. Avoid using multiple pieces of tape for the same stretch of masking. A tiny bit of uneven overlap will show!
Be sure to press down on your tape as you go. This seems like a given; but it can be easy to get moving along a trim board or other lengthy surface and forget to press your tape down the whole way.
Allow 2nd coat of paint to dry before removing masking. You want your paint to Just be dry to the touch so that you cannot accidentally smudge it as you roll up your masking.
Stick in in the trash. Even obvious things can be forgotten. 😉
Drown the masking tape with a super heavy first coat. If you take it easy on the first coat, it will help to seal the tape to the wall and give you a clean line. If you bury tape with too much moisture; it will not remain adhered to the wall. We all know what happens next.
Forget to bolt down free edges of plastic and paper. Wind and even pressure from the paint sprayer will cause these to blow around into your freshly painted surface.
Remove masking after each coat. It is very difficult to match your original line if you decide you want a fresh batch of tape for the 2nd coat. Apply both coats (Or more if necessary) before removing tape.
Leave tape too long. You want the paint to be dry before you remove your masking; but if you let it dry more than 24 hours it is much more likely to pull the paint right off with it. This completely ruins that perfect line. Epic Fail. (Fear not! There is a tip below just in case this is happening!)
Mask around lightbulbs with paper. Some people still use lightbulbs that get hot. Charred accents can be nice sometimes; but that is probably not what you’re going for if you are painting!
Throw all your masking on the floor. Dry paint flakes make a big mess and its better to put them straight into the trash. Sometimes there can even be slightly wet paint still hanging out on the plastic; and that will make an even bigger mess.
Get yourself one of these masking tools! It is a serious time saver that helps you get straight lines and also lines up your tape perfectly with either paper or plastic.
If you have the time and REALLY REALLY want a perfect line; paint a light coat of the color you are hoping to protect against the masking tape’s seam (provided you have it). This will seal the tape with the color behind it, and then you can continue to paint your new color worry free.
The Grande Finale of Tips! When you remove your masking tape; first use a blade to score the edge of the tape so that it doesn’t pull any of the new color off with it. This is especially useful in tight areas like along the inside corners and edges of window trim, or in any circumstance where you find your tape is pulling new paint up with it.
Hopefully these tips make the time you spend masking well worth it! If not; at least you will get practice at cutting in and doing touch up! 😉 Thanks for reading! Have a Great Day! If you would like to see how our team gets all the things masked off; give us a call at 541-600-2025 or click HERE to book an estimate now!!!
A fireplace is often the focal point of a living room. It draws our focus visually and even physically when a warm fire is burning. The fireplace has the power to set the tone of the whole room! This can be one of the biggest obstacles though, when we are repainting or remodeling our home. Do we choose a color we like even if it doesn’t match the fireplace? Do we choose a color that matches the fireplace even though we don’t like it? Dare we paint it?!? Below, I will share 5 different methods that can bring new life to your brick or stone fireplace!
The 1st thing you will need to do regardless of the method you choose, will be to prepare the surface of your fireplace. If you need to repair any mortar, now would be the logical time to do so. 😉 Then it is time to clean! Use warm water with a little bit of soap (you can use dawn or tsp etc) and a nylon scrub brush to really get into the grout and texture of your stone or brick. Rinse and allow surface to fully dry. When this is done you will need to mask off areas where you do not want paint; such as mantle shelves, wood stove, walls, and floors. Finish prepping by laying down a canvas drop cloth beneath your materials where you will be walking and working.
1. White-Wash or Gray Wash Stone or Brick Fireplace
This is probably the most “known” way people refinish their fireplaces. It is relatively simple, cheap, and easy to control the outcome! Two common paint choices for this are chalk paint and latex paint. Of the two; I recommend latex. Chalk paint tends to cost more and requires a wax top coat to protect the finish. It looks a little more like natural stone, but a matte or even glossy latex will be very similar in sheen once it has been diluted. White-washing kind of paved the way for DIY-ers to remodel their fireplaces at a low cost. The looks can vary greatly, so you really just have to be sure that you are creating the look you’re aiming for as you go!
Use a plastic container to mix equal parts paint and water. Start with about a cup of each, as this will cover a large area. Stir this well. *If you want a very subtle white-wash (lots of brick showing through); try mixing 75% water with 25% paint. This will be very runny. That is ok. Test your mixture in an inconspicuous place to be sure you are satisfied. If you want more coverage, add more paint. If you want more transparency, add more water. You can practice applying paint with brushes, sponges, or rags to decide what looks best to you.
Begin at the top. Use whichever application tool you prefer in one hand to apply your paint wash, and a blotting rag in the other hand to blot off excess paint and catch runs. You want to work about 2 or 3 bricks at a time so you can blot off runs before they get away from you and dab or wipe off paint to give it that “washed” look.
In most cases, your fireplace brick will have a little color variation that will show through your whitewash. If your fireplace is very monotone and you would like more variation; here are two options! First, you could go back for a second coat of white-wash on just some bricks in no specific pattern. A second way is to use a second color mixed into a wash and to apply it after you are finished with the first. The key to keeping things looking natural is to let things be a little random. Do not skip every 3rd brick, just take a step back once in awhile and see where variation is needed or not.
That pretty much sums it up! Most of the time with a white-wash, the finish is meant to be a little variated and weathered so you do not typically need to apply a top coat. Once you are satisfied with the look you have created you can remove all your masking and enjoy!
2. Lime-Wash Stone or Brick Fireplace
Lime-Wash is a mineral based finish that has been around Waaaaaaay longer than white-wash; at least as far back as Ancient Egypt… but I remember when I was first looking into it, it seemed so much harder to get your hands on than modern latex paint. In fact, it is not so hard to find. Romabio’s Classico Limewash is a popular product if you are unsure! The advantages are actually pretty significant though! The first advantage being that with certain formulations; you can wash it off in the first 2 days if you are unhappy with the result. Another advantage is that the natural components of it are healthier for an indoor environment. You still don’t want to rub it in your eyes though. 😉 And also; those same natural components make it look more like natural stone!
Materials: Limewash, Plastic Mixing Bucket, Stir Stick, Spray Bottle, Rag, Masonry Brush, Small Brush, Painter’s Tape, Drop Cloth
Always Prep the brick or stone first, as described above!
1.Once again; you will use a separate plastic container to mix limewash with water. Start with a 50/50 ratio again, and if it is still too thick you can add more. You will want to mix this a little longer than the latex paint; 5-10 minutes until there is no standing water left.
2. Use the spray bottle to dampen the bricks before applying limewash! You do not want them to be dripping; just damp! Start at the top and work your way to the bottom, being sure to get a pretty solid coat on, and work in any runs as you work your way down.
3. Once complete; wait 10-30 minutes for it to dry before going back in to add distressing-if desired. It should be nearly dry, still a little damp, but definitely not dripping. Use the spray bottle and rags to spray off and wipe or blot away as much or as little as you want! Do this part 1-2 bricks at a time!
4. Use a smaller brush to get into any grout cracks or spaces missed and touch up any areas you aren’t satisfied with.
5. You have 5 days to decide if you like it or not and it can still be washed off if you are not happy with your work!
3. Masonry Stain on Stone or Brick Fireplace
Masonry Stain or Concrete Stain is an excellent way to change the tone of your fireplace. You can sometimes find it in semi-transparent if you are looking for a subtle difference. Concrete Stain is the option I personally chose for my fireplace, as I did not really want the distressed or weathered look with the warm tones showing through underneath like you get with the previous two methods. My fireplace had orange and pink stones (and grout) that I wanted to be gray. I went over to Home Depot and picked up a gallon of solid concrete stain that they tinted with the gray color I chose. My process is described below; but keep in mind that you can do other things!
Materials: Concrete Stain, Paint Brush (or sprayer), Textured Sponges, Small Mixing Containers (3-5), Painter’s Tape, Drop Cloths, Cardboard
Always Prep Surface First as described above!
1. Our fireplace is a monstrosity that takes up the entire wall. The stacked stones had some deep crevices to get to the grout in places, so we chose to spray our concrete stain onto the fireplace. Not everyone has a paint sprayer on hand, and it wasn’t necessary; it just simplified the first step for us! You want to get this covered well in one coat. The stones can only absorb so much stain before it starts to build up on the outside and will then develop a shinier appearance like paint. You just want enough for it to soak in and cover well!
2. Once the whole fireplace was a solid shade of gray, I began to mix up 4 different shades of latex paint-washes. (Just add water remember!) We had a lot of gray paints on hand (paint business and all) So I made a wash with the following Sherwin Williams Colors: Mineral Deposit, Colonial Revival Gray, and Alabaster. I also used our trim paint (Black Magic) and added a few drops of it to the Concrete Stain and turned that into a wash as well to add some darker tones. I did not measure anything precisely.
3. I went in with one shade at a time and tried my best to use random placement, and applied these “paint-washes” with some small art sponges I had left over from a different project. Before applying to the stone; I blotted most of the paint off onto a piece of cardboard so that it wouldn’t be too overpowering and the sponge was mostly dry. This worked pretty well to create a natural, multi-dimensional tone.
4. Once I felt like I had reached the look I was going for; I painted the mantle (which had already been stained as it is made of the same stone) with my darker shade by sponging it on.
5. The fun part about using paint-washes is how easy it is to get any shades you like! Just purchases sample sizes! I might have chosen slightly different shades if we didn’t have so many on hand, but I am very pleased with the result, and I really had a fun time with this project!
You could also add the variation with actual concrete stain that was tinted to different colors, and apply it much the same way. Good luck finding sample sizes though! At least if your base is a stain, then even if some of your paint-based dimension gets worn off; the underneath will still be stained and not orange brick!
4. German Schmear on Brick Fireplace
This is a very similar process; except instead of using a paint, you use mortar! This creates a very old world-cottagey look, but it easily blends with modern design. Some people like to seal the brick the day before applying mortar (After prepping the surface of course!) to prevent any tones or warmth from bleeding through, although this is not necessary. I am not sure this would work as well on a stone fireplace, but I am sure someone out there has tried and failed!..I mean succeeded! 😉
Materials: Mortar (Pre-Mixed will be easier), Painter’s Tape, Brown Builder’s Paper, Piping Bag (Ziplock), Putty Knife, Sponge, Rag
1.While you CAN just use drywall tools such as joint knives or metal scrapers; it is Easier to put your mortar in a ziplock bag with the corner cut off- or piping bag- and begin filling the grout lines with the mortar. Do a small section, about 1-2 feet at a time. You want there to be a little bit of excess.
2. Take your putty knife (some people prefer spatulas or even just a gloved hand) and begin to schmear! This method isn’t about being precise. You want some bricks to be more covered than others, and you want to smear in different directions. If you need more mortar than what was in your grout, simply put it on your putty knife and slap dat… to the wall…
3. If you have way more mortar than you want in an area, scrape it off and use the excess somewhere else. If you just want to wipe away small portions of mortar to create some contrast and variation; use a damp sponge!
4. As with the other methods; this is about Your personal preference. Take a step back every once in awhile and add or remove mortar as you see fit!
5. Once complete, all you have to do is let it dry!
5. Paint on Stone or Brick Fireplace
Many people simply opt to paint their fireplace the same color as the wall. This is a good option if you don’t really want your fireplace to be the main focal point of the room. It is still going to stand out, but maybe less than before. If you want to paint your fireplace a solid color that is not necessarily the same as your walls though; I highly recommend using concrete stain (See Option 3) instead of paint, as it absorbs into the stone and will not chip or scratch like paint can.
Since all that is required for painting a fireplace is to clean the surface and just paint it, I am going to give directions for what you can do if your fireplace is already painted a solid color and you want to give it more natural character again!
Materials: Painters Tape, Drop Cloth, Sponges, Cardboard, Mixing Containers
1.If you have Bricks; cut a large sponge to be the size of your brick so that it won’t get into your grout lines. If you have Stones; I suggest using smaller natural texture sponges.
2.Mix up as many colors as desired in separate containers (I recommend about 3). For this wash; I would use 75% paint to 25% water.
3. Lightly place your sponge into the mixture and then dab it onto a piece of carboard until it is no longer runny. Then move to the stone and sponge it on. Start light; you can always go back and add a little more here or there.
4. I suggest using one main color on every brick at least a little to tie everything together. Then use the other colors as accents if desired.
5. Try to step back once in awhile and make sure you are keeping things a little random and not too precise! As with all the other methods; continue until you are satisfied with the result! In this case; your fireplace has already been painted so you have Nothing to lose! If you dislike it; simply paint it back!
Thanks for Reading!
I hope this helps you feel confident that you can revitalize your fireplace, and that you know which method will work best for what you want! There is a lot of information out there and it can be overwhelming! There are professionals out there who will do this type of job; but they are not always easy to find! Hopefully this will at least help you know what method you’re looking for even if you don’t plan on doing it yourself!
To Schedule a Paint Estimate with Sir Paints A Lot call 541-600-2025 or click HERE!
Some may carry tools in totes. Some may carry tools in bags. We don’t care about the outside. It is what’s on the inside that counts ;). Let’s take a peek inside and learn about some essential painting tools
A painter needs many tools but the specific tools required varies from one project to another, and sometimes from interior to exterior. Pressure washing an interior would be quite a sight to behold, but is unnecessary and would most likely require an insurance claim. Smaller, more basic tools are the highlight of this blog but I am working on another one to cover larger painting equipment as well. I will link that here soon!
1. Hammer and Nail Punch
One of the first things a painter will pull out of their tool bag is a hammer to pull out nails so they can have a smooth surface to paint on. A nail punch is sometimes needed for nails in trim which are protruding and need carefully tapped in.
2. Electrician Screwdriver
The absolute quickest way to remove all those outlet covers and light fixtures and all those other things with screws that need to come down before painting. If you have never used these before; prepare to be amazed. Regular old-fashioned screwdrivers will also suffice, however since many houses also have fixtures with all sorts of miscellaneous shaped screws or bolts, it is good to have a multi-bit screwdriver with various attachments. If you must be basic-be basic with your hammer instead. 😉
3. 5 in 1 Tool
This tool can also be used for pulling nails and hammering a nail punch; but a good philosophy to have with your paint tools is “Two is One and One is None”. It is Always good to have a backup option and the 5 in 1 tool will have your back! This tool is also great for scraping rough or raised spots out of drywall and for scraping peeling paint. Its other uses are for opening paint cans and cleaning excess paint from the roller.
4. Spackle and Putty Knife
Once you’ve used your other tools to get all the obstacles out of the way, it would be a great idea to smooth out all those nail holes and other small imperfections. Use a putty knife to smooth spackle into these spaces, taking care to not apply more than necessary to level out the hole. Mountains and Craters are both spectacular sights…but not when they’re on your wall texture…
5. Sanding Sponge or Sandpaper
Surfaces like doors and trim really need to have the shine buffed off before painting. A Scotch Pad is another option you can use for lightly scuffing a surface. It is also a good idea to smooth over areas you may have added spackle or patched drywall.
6. Surface Cleaner
After sanding there will be extra dust on the surfaces aside from the normal dust. It is essential to now clean these surfaces before painting. Unless a surface is particularly grimy; you can just use warm water and add a mild soap if necessary. Using a floor mop is an easy way to quickly reach the whole wall. For tougher spots like the crayon masterpiece on the living room wall or the kitchen wall behind the stove; a little TSP followed by a quick rinse is a good idea! Pay extra attention to window trim and door trim as these areas collect significant amounts of dust (as I am sure you noticed while sanding). Wipe them down good because you will need to mask these off later in order to paint. You will need them to be clean if you want your tape to stick. Which you do. Trust me.
7. Caulking Gun
You also need the caulk to go with this ;). Make sure you use a paint-able caulk! Caulk along unsightly seams where trim meets the wall and remember to smooth out your caulking bead with your finger or a rag as you go. This will prevent these areas from becoming even more unsightly. 😉
8. Masker and Tape
We love to use these masking tools. You can load them up with paper or plastic to quickly mask off any areas that need protected. Also note that you should sweep or vacuum along the floor trim in order for your painters tape to adhere properly.
9. Canvas Drop Cloths
If you leave any speck of floor showing; paint will land on it. Painter’s Law 😉
Use a paintbrush for cut in along where the wall meets the ceiling, the floor trim, the window trim, the door trim, and around any masked off fixtures etc. The most common brush size for this is 2.5 or 3 inches, however once you’ve got that down, a 4 inch brush can really increase your speed because it holds more paint but is still small enough to be precise with along these sorts of edges. Use whichever size you can be precise and efficient with!
11. Paint Roller
Use these systematically across the wall and make sure to back-roll for even coverage! These fluffy ones are obviously our favorites for most jobs! On larger jobs we will switch to the 18 inch rollers.
12. Extension Pole
An extension pole is a helpful tool for quickly being able to roll out a wall, especially so if the wall is a little on the tall side. You can also steal your wife’s broom handle and it will serve this purpose well…until you forget to return it to her and your kitchen does not get swept for 8 days….
13. Paint Tray
For smaller jobs use an average sized tray. For larger jobs, we love to use these 18 inch monstrosities. Some painters also like to use plastic liners in their paint trays for easy color switches and quicker clean-up.
14. Wire Brush
A very helpful tool for cleaning out your paintbrushes and getting any bits of dried paint off of them.
If you have made it this far without a ladder, congratulations on being a descendant of Goliath! The rest of us will likely need a ladder at some point. We recommend these ones as they are practical for both indoor and outdoor use.
Ok, Ok… not all of these tools actually fit “inside” the toolbox, but who doesn’t love a good cliche? Don’t answer that… Hopefully we have answered any questions you may or may not have had about a painter’s tools! And just because what’s on the outside matters a tiny bit….Here is where you can find our favorite tool box 😉