Ahhh. The anticipation of peeling off masking tape to see crisp, clean paint lines…. Only to discover that the paint has leaked through, the lines are squiggled, and the tape is stuck… in some places… Below I will share some dos and don’ts that may just help you avoid this messy fate!
First things first! There are several different colors and varieties of painting tape or masking tape. I’ll just go over the reason for this and which tape to use where!
White Tape: White tape is just your basic masking tape and it is commonly used to hang plastic or paper up around window sills or trim. It works well in most painting situations and can be found in different widths. It is not as highly recommended as blue; but it is much cheaper and works well in all the same situations.
Blue Tape: Blue painter’s tape has medium adhesion and is practical for using on slightly more delicate surfaces that you don’t want to risk damaging. For example; You are painting a kitchen and need to mask off the cabinets which have been painted in the past. Blue tape is less likely to pull up the old paint. If that were to happen; then you would need to repaint the cabinets too. Not a fun add-on if you were not planning on it! Go with Purple if you’re really cautious.
Green Tape: Green painter’s tape has very strong adhesion and is the best choice if you are relying on tape to get crisp, straight lines with no bleeding; especially if the surface you are applying it too is a little rough. It can pull up the material underneath, though; so use with discretion.
Orange Tape: Orange Tape is Basically white tape but stronger. The adhesion level is the same but the strength of the tape (how easily it tears or rips) is a little more heavy duty.
Yellow Tape: Yellow tape has strong adhesion that works excellent outdoors. It is waterproof and works great on exterior windows because it will not leave any residue which would later collect dust. Nobody likes dirty windows…
Now here are some tips for How to use masking tape; How to not to; and a few bonus tips at the end!
Clean the surface you will be masking first. Your tape won’t stick to dust….well, scratch that, it will! Dust won’t keep your tape stuck to the wall though!
Apply your masking as straight and smooth as you can. Avoid using multiple pieces of tape for the same stretch of masking. A tiny bit of uneven overlap will show!
Be sure to press down on your tape as you go. This seems like a given; but it can be easy to get moving along a trim board or other lengthy surface and forget to press your tape down the whole way.
Allow 2nd coat of paint to dry before removing masking. You want your paint to Just be dry to the touch so that you cannot accidentally smudge it as you roll up your masking.
Stick in in the trash. Even obvious things can be forgotten. 😉
Drown the masking tape with a super heavy first coat. If you take it easy on the first coat, it will help to seal the tape to the wall and give you a clean line. If you bury tape with too much moisture; it will not remain adhered to the wall. We all know what happens next.
Forget to bolt down free edges of plastic and paper. Wind and even pressure from the paint sprayer will cause these to blow around into your freshly painted surface.
Remove masking after each coat. It is very difficult to match your original line if you decide you want a fresh batch of tape for the 2nd coat. Apply both coats (Or more if necessary) before removing tape.
Leave tape too long. You want the paint to be dry before you remove your masking; but if you let it dry more than 24 hours it is much more likely to pull the paint right off with it. This completely ruins that perfect line. Epic Fail. (Fear not! There is a tip below just in case this is happening!)
Mask around lightbulbs with paper. Some people still use lightbulbs that get hot. Charred accents can be nice sometimes; but that is probably not what you’re going for if you are painting!
Throw all your masking on the floor. Dry paint flakes make a big mess and its better to put them straight into the trash. Sometimes there can even be slightly wet paint still hanging out on the plastic; and that will make an even bigger mess.
Get yourself one of these masking tools! It is a serious time saver that helps you get straight lines and also lines up your tape perfectly with either paper or plastic.
If you have the time and REALLY REALLY want a perfect line; paint a light coat of the color you are hoping to protect against the masking tape’s seam (provided you have it). This will seal the tape with the color behind it, and then you can continue to paint your new color worry free.
The Grande Finale of Tips! When you remove your masking tape; first use a blade to score the edge of the tape so that it doesn’t pull any of the new color off with it. This is especially useful in tight areas like along the inside corners and edges of window trim, or in any circumstance where you find your tape is pulling new paint up with it.
Hopefully these tips make the time you spend masking well worth it! If not; at least you will get practice at cutting in and doing touch up! 😉 Thanks for reading! Have a Great Day! If you would like to see how our team gets all the things masked off; give us a call at 541-600-2025 or click HERE to book an estimate now!!!
A fireplace is often the focal point of a living room. It draws our focus visually and even physically when a warm fire is burning. The fireplace has the power to set the tone of the whole room! This can be one of the biggest obstacles though, when we are repainting or remodeling our home. Do we choose a color we like even if it doesn’t match the fireplace? Do we choose a color that matches the fireplace even though we don’t like it? Dare we paint it?!? Below, I will share 5 different methods that can bring new life to your brick or stone fireplace!
The 1st thing you will need to do regardless of the method you choose, will be to prepare the surface of your fireplace. If you need to repair any mortar, now would be the logical time to do so. 😉 Then it is time to clean! Use warm water with a little bit of soap (you can use dawn or tsp etc) and a nylon scrub brush to really get into the grout and texture of your stone or brick. Rinse and allow surface to fully dry. When this is done you will need to mask off areas where you do not want paint; such as mantle shelves, wood stove, walls, and floors. Finish prepping by laying down a canvas drop cloth beneath your materials where you will be walking and working.
1. White-Wash or Gray Wash Stone or Brick Fireplace
This is probably the most “known” way people refinish their fireplaces. It is relatively simple, cheap, and easy to control the outcome! Two common paint choices for this are chalk paint and latex paint. Of the two; I recommend latex. Chalk paint tends to cost more and requires a wax top coat to protect the finish. It looks a little more like natural stone, but a matte or even glossy latex will be very similar in sheen once it has been diluted. White-washing kind of paved the way for DIY-ers to remodel their fireplaces at a low cost. The looks can vary greatly, so you really just have to be sure that you are creating the look you’re aiming for as you go!
Use a plastic container to mix equal parts paint and water. Start with about a cup of each, as this will cover a large area. Stir this well. *If you want a very subtle white-wash (lots of brick showing through); try mixing 75% water with 25% paint. This will be very runny. That is ok. Test your mixture in an inconspicuous place to be sure you are satisfied. If you want more coverage, add more paint. If you want more transparency, add more water. You can practice applying paint with brushes, sponges, or rags to decide what looks best to you.
Begin at the top. Use whichever application tool you prefer in one hand to apply your paint wash, and a blotting rag in the other hand to blot off excess paint and catch runs. You want to work about 2 or 3 bricks at a time so you can blot off runs before they get away from you and dab or wipe off paint to give it that “washed” look.
In most cases, your fireplace brick will have a little color variation that will show through your whitewash. If your fireplace is very monotone and you would like more variation; here are two options! First, you could go back for a second coat of white-wash on just some bricks in no specific pattern. A second way is to use a second color mixed into a wash and to apply it after you are finished with the first. The key to keeping things looking natural is to let things be a little random. Do not skip every 3rd brick, just take a step back once in awhile and see where variation is needed or not.
That pretty much sums it up! Most of the time with a white-wash, the finish is meant to be a little variated and weathered so you do not typically need to apply a top coat. Once you are satisfied with the look you have created you can remove all your masking and enjoy!
2. Lime-Wash Stone or Brick Fireplace
Lime-Wash is a mineral based finish that has been around Waaaaaaay longer than white-wash; at least as far back as Ancient Egypt… but I remember when I was first looking into it, it seemed so much harder to get your hands on than modern latex paint. In fact, it is not so hard to find. Romabio’s Classico Limewash is a popular product if you are unsure! The advantages are actually pretty significant though! The first advantage being that with certain formulations; you can wash it off in the first 2 days if you are unhappy with the result. Another advantage is that the natural components of it are healthier for an indoor environment. You still don’t want to rub it in your eyes though. 😉 And also; those same natural components make it look more like natural stone!
Materials: Limewash, Plastic Mixing Bucket, Stir Stick, Spray Bottle, Rag, Masonry Brush, Small Brush, Painter’s Tape, Drop Cloth
Always Prep the brick or stone first, as described above!
1.Once again; you will use a separate plastic container to mix limewash with water. Start with a 50/50 ratio again, and if it is still too thick you can add more. You will want to mix this a little longer than the latex paint; 5-10 minutes until there is no standing water left.
2. Use the spray bottle to dampen the bricks before applying limewash! You do not want them to be dripping; just damp! Start at the top and work your way to the bottom, being sure to get a pretty solid coat on, and work in any runs as you work your way down.
3. Once complete; wait 10-30 minutes for it to dry before going back in to add distressing-if desired. It should be nearly dry, still a little damp, but definitely not dripping. Use the spray bottle and rags to spray off and wipe or blot away as much or as little as you want! Do this part 1-2 bricks at a time!
4. Use a smaller brush to get into any grout cracks or spaces missed and touch up any areas you aren’t satisfied with.
5. You have 5 days to decide if you like it or not and it can still be washed off if you are not happy with your work!
3. Masonry Stain on Stone or Brick Fireplace
Masonry Stain or Concrete Stain is an excellent way to change the tone of your fireplace. You can sometimes find it in semi-transparent if you are looking for a subtle difference. Concrete Stain is the option I personally chose for my fireplace, as I did not really want the distressed or weathered look with the warm tones showing through underneath like you get with the previous two methods. My fireplace had orange and pink stones (and grout) that I wanted to be gray. I went over to Home Depot and picked up a gallon of solid concrete stain that they tinted with the gray color I chose. My process is described below; but keep in mind that you can do other things!
Materials: Concrete Stain, Paint Brush (or sprayer), Textured Sponges, Small Mixing Containers (3-5), Painter’s Tape, Drop Cloths, Cardboard
Always Prep Surface First as described above!
1. Our fireplace is a monstrosity that takes up the entire wall. The stacked stones had some deep crevices to get to the grout in places, so we chose to spray our concrete stain onto the fireplace. Not everyone has a paint sprayer on hand, and it wasn’t necessary; it just simplified the first step for us! You want to get this covered well in one coat. The stones can only absorb so much stain before it starts to build up on the outside and will then develop a shinier appearance like paint. You just want enough for it to soak in and cover well!
2. Once the whole fireplace was a solid shade of gray, I began to mix up 4 different shades of latex paint-washes. (Just add water remember!) We had a lot of gray paints on hand (paint business and all) So I made a wash with the following Sherwin Williams Colors: Mineral Deposit, Colonial Revival Gray, and Alabaster. I also used our trim paint (Black Magic) and added a few drops of it to the Concrete Stain and turned that into a wash as well to add some darker tones. I did not measure anything precisely.
3. I went in with one shade at a time and tried my best to use random placement, and applied these “paint-washes” with some small art sponges I had left over from a different project. Before applying to the stone; I blotted most of the paint off onto a piece of cardboard so that it wouldn’t be too overpowering and the sponge was mostly dry. This worked pretty well to create a natural, multi-dimensional tone.
4. Once I felt like I had reached the look I was going for; I painted the mantle (which had already been stained as it is made of the same stone) with my darker shade by sponging it on.
5. The fun part about using paint-washes is how easy it is to get any shades you like! Just purchases sample sizes! I might have chosen slightly different shades if we didn’t have so many on hand, but I am very pleased with the result, and I really had a fun time with this project!
You could also add the variation with actual concrete stain that was tinted to different colors, and apply it much the same way. Good luck finding sample sizes though! At least if your base is a stain, then even if some of your paint-based dimension gets worn off; the underneath will still be stained and not orange brick!
4. German Schmear on Brick Fireplace
This is a very similar process; except instead of using a paint, you use mortar! This creates a very old world-cottagey look, but it easily blends with modern design. Some people like to seal the brick the day before applying mortar (After prepping the surface of course!) to prevent any tones or warmth from bleeding through, although this is not necessary. I am not sure this would work as well on a stone fireplace, but I am sure someone out there has tried and failed!..I mean succeeded! 😉
Materials: Mortar (Pre-Mixed will be easier), Painter’s Tape, Brown Builder’s Paper, Piping Bag (Ziplock), Putty Knife, Sponge, Rag
1.While you CAN just use drywall tools such as joint knives or metal scrapers; it is Easier to put your mortar in a ziplock bag with the corner cut off- or piping bag- and begin filling the grout lines with the mortar. Do a small section, about 1-2 feet at a time. You want there to be a little bit of excess.
2. Take your putty knife (some people prefer spatulas or even just a gloved hand) and begin to schmear! This method isn’t about being precise. You want some bricks to be more covered than others, and you want to smear in different directions. If you need more mortar than what was in your grout, simply put it on your putty knife and slap dat… to the wall…
3. If you have way more mortar than you want in an area, scrape it off and use the excess somewhere else. If you just want to wipe away small portions of mortar to create some contrast and variation; use a damp sponge!
4. As with the other methods; this is about Your personal preference. Take a step back every once in awhile and add or remove mortar as you see fit!
5. Once complete, all you have to do is let it dry!
5. Paint on Stone or Brick Fireplace
Many people simply opt to paint their fireplace the same color as the wall. This is a good option if you don’t really want your fireplace to be the main focal point of the room. It is still going to stand out, but maybe less than before. If you want to paint your fireplace a solid color that is not necessarily the same as your walls though; I highly recommend using concrete stain (See Option 3) instead of paint, as it absorbs into the stone and will not chip or scratch like paint can.
Since all that is required for painting a fireplace is to clean the surface and just paint it, I am going to give directions for what you can do if your fireplace is already painted a solid color and you want to give it more natural character again!
Materials: Painters Tape, Drop Cloth, Sponges, Cardboard, Mixing Containers
1.If you have Bricks; cut a large sponge to be the size of your brick so that it won’t get into your grout lines. If you have Stones; I suggest using smaller natural texture sponges.
2.Mix up as many colors as desired in separate containers (I recommend about 3). For this wash; I would use 75% paint to 25% water.
3. Lightly place your sponge into the mixture and then dab it onto a piece of carboard until it is no longer runny. Then move to the stone and sponge it on. Start light; you can always go back and add a little more here or there.
4. I suggest using one main color on every brick at least a little to tie everything together. Then use the other colors as accents if desired.
5. Try to step back once in awhile and make sure you are keeping things a little random and not too precise! As with all the other methods; continue until you are satisfied with the result! In this case; your fireplace has already been painted so you have Nothing to lose! If you dislike it; simply paint it back!
Thanks for Reading!
I hope this helps you feel confident that you can revitalize your fireplace, and that you know which method will work best for what you want! There is a lot of information out there and it can be overwhelming! There are professionals out there who will do this type of job; but they are not always easy to find! Hopefully this will at least help you know what method you’re looking for even if you don’t plan on doing it yourself!
To Schedule a Paint Estimate with Sir Paints A Lot call 541-600-2025 or click HERE!
You have decided it is time to paint your home! Choosing the painter you want to work with is your first step, and also the most important. How do you choose which company is right for you? Here are 5 tips!
1. Research and Referrals
Finding a painter is easier than you think! Reach out to your friends and neighbors and ask them about the experiences they had with the painter they hired. Chances are that someone you know had either a very positive experience to lead you towards a certain company, or a very negative experience that will help you steer clear! Google is also a great place to search for painters in the Eugene/Springfield area as many painters will have google reviews left by customers. Generally, the more positive reviews you see, the more likely it is that most customers have a positive experience. If you want to know more, many contractors have some details about their company on their business website; along with before and after photos of previous jobs. Some painters even take the extra step to get video testimonials so you can really get a good idea of the quality of service they provide! Check out this video testimonial of Sir Paints A Lot!
2. Schedule Estimates
After you have done some research, you should narrow down a list of about 3 painters and schedule estimates with each of them (ideally not at the same time). This will give you a chance to meet them in person and observe how they put their estimate together. Here are a few things to watch for:
Did they show up on time or call ahead if they were going to be late?
Do they measure spaces precisely or do they eyeball it/ use rough guesswork?
Do they point out areas that may need additional work? (drywall repair, dry-rot, caulking etc)
Is their communication with you clear and responsive to any questions you have?
Was the estimate delivered to you accurately and in a timely manner?
Are they respectful of your time and property?
3. Compare Estimates
Now that you have had a chance to meet your potential painters and look over their estimates, you will probably have an idea of which company you most want to work with. Sometimes your estimates will all be close to the same price, but other times there will be a significant difference in cost. It is important to figure out why and not just choose the cheapest deal. A detailed estimate is preferable to most people because they can see exactly why their paint job costs the price it does. If one of your estimates comes in at a much lower price range and does not provide specific details, it is important to ask a few questions.
Will they be priming?
How many coats of paint will be applied?
Will they be painting my trim and doors?
Are there any repairs that need done?
What is the quality of the paint they will be using?
How do they schedule the work? (pressure washing, repairs, painting…)
Is there a warranty or maintenance plan?
Do they include a color consult?
If their estimate is missing these details and they do not answer your questions with confidence and clarity, you should be prepared for them to add-on things to your final bill that they did not take the time to account for in the original estimate. Most of us would like to avoid this game of chance by simply having a detailed estimate in the first place. There is always a chance that problems could arise as a job goes on, but a painter who is looking for potential problem areas in the beginning is much more likely to be prepared to handle them!
4. Compare Cost with Value
When you have your house painted, you want to enjoy the paint job as long as possible and get the most life out of it! You want the color to be everything you hoped it would be, and you want the coverage to hold up well to the elements. Many companies will offer a general warranty for product failure, but let’s be real…they hope you never call! At Sir Paints A Lot, WE call YOU to schedule touch up work each year! We value our customers and want them to enjoy their investment for many years. Some painters also include a color consult which can be very helpful! Even if you know what color you want, a color consultant can help you determine if it will be a good fit for your space and even paint samples onto the wall. We all know that little paint card can be deceiving! It is important to weigh these details when you compare your estimates. Having your home painted is a big investment, and getting long lasting value should be a primary goal!
5. Choose with Confidence
By now, you should have a clear idea of which painter you want to work with and which estimate you feel comfortable with. You will have had a chance to observe their professionalism, read reviews, and ask any questions about the estimate. Surely you have formed an opinion on how well they communicate, and how well they addressed your concerns. Choose someone you feel will be safe to have around your family! If you don’t want to go off a feeling, definitely go ahead and ask your painter how they screen their employees! Here at Sir Paints A Lot we have all our employees background checked because we want your family to feel safe with us too! Hopefully these tips helped you to make a decision about who to hire for your painting needs!
To Schedule a Paint Estimate with Sir Paints A Lot: Call 541-600-2025, or click here to book online!
What exactly is Curb Appeal? Well, it is the level of appeal or attractiveness your home has when it is viewed from the curb. The prime example of judging a book by its cover. 😉 It is the first impression which will hopefully give prospective home-buyers some idea of how well the rest of the house has been taken care of. Fixing-Upping is all well and good for some house hunters, but others would say “aint nobody got time for dat”. Whether you are looking to sell your home for a good price, keep property values in your neighborhood up, or just want to improve the environment of your home for yourself; one of these 10 tips is sure to help you out!
1. Pressure Wash
They say beauty runs deeper than the surface… and that is absolutely true. Deep beneath the surface of dust and grime and mildew lies a beautiful home. For added curb appeal; also pressure wash the driveway and sidewalks!
If pressure washing reveals that your home is not, in fact, beautiful beneath the surface; do not despair! We have 9 more tips to go!
While this is not the most low-cost option, this will add more value to your home than most other things will, so it is likely that you will see some return on investment here. Unless, of course, you forfeit that opportunity by either choosing a hideous color or hiring your painter carelessly. The first should be easy to avoid though, and you can click HERE if you want some tips for hiring a painter!
You can also touch up your paint if it has been recently painted and hasn’t faded too much to match. If you hire us- we do the touch up work for you! Check out this video of Sir Paints A Lot doing warranty touch up work! For more information about our Warranty, give us a call!
3. Paint Front Door
Repainting your whole exterior may not be in the budget, but painting the front door is a much cheaper way to draw attention to the fact that you pay attention to your home. Remember- the underlying purpose of curb appeal is to show that the home has been taken care of. Choose a color that stands out while still pairing well with the other colors of your home. We are not looking for an obnoxious clash of the colors here. Bold and beautiful!
Whether your plants are non-existent or just need some affection, having some crisp clean greenery is a sure way to boost your home’s liveliness and curb appeal. If you need some ideas for plants that grow well in the Pacific Northwest, click HERE! Plant placement is a factor so be sure to consider the amount of sunlight the area you will be adding plants to receives Before you select your plants.The most common place to plant bushes or flowers tends to be somewhere that accentuates the focal points of the home, such as near the front door or below the front windows. Even a simple potted plant can be a significant improvement! As long as you remember to water it…. 😉
Rock Gardens can also add an appealing touch to your home! You can head down to the river and collect some river rocks for free, or you can purchase some more specific rocks if you have a certain look in mind. Rocks may not smell as wonderful as fresh sod, but they sure do last longer! When you use rocks to accent the areas you have your plants-Even better!
6. House Numbers
There are a lot of ways to be creative with this one! Making your house numbers stand out in an appealing way not only helps people find your house in the first place, it also makes it feel more inviting and therefore more like a home.
7. General Lawn Maintenance
Even if you prefer a yard of dandelions and clovers and bumblebees with tall soft grass that has never encountered a lawn mower… This will most assuredly look like work to any prospective home-buyer. If you plan to sell your home, you should begin a lawn-care regimen before listing, and make sure to at least do a little weed and feed. When considering curb appeal, remember that the lawn is the closest thing to the curb! If your yard is full of gopher holes and dog bone hide-outs and crab grass and weeds and more work that you yourself don’t have time for….consider laying down sod.
8. Outdoor Lights
Let there be Light! Many houses already have some sort of outdoor light, but even simple things like updating the fixtures and replacing the bulbs can give your entryway a boost! Solar lights along walkway paths is another option if you don’t have the time to add in new electrical fixtures.
9. Clean Windows
If all of this talk about external appearances has got you down in the shallows- this is your moment! Windows will need to be cleaned on the inside too in order to look nice on the outside! 😉 Especially if you have small children…Dusty, dirty windows are not going to do you any favors and this is one of the easiest things you can do yourself! It will be worth it!
10. Walk Around
Chances are, if it looks bad, you already know… Some homes might have worn out porch railings, or the deck might need stained… Other houses may not have these things at all. A 6ft privacy fence will be far more valuable if your neighbor feels the need to supply the city with a back-up junkyard than it will be if your neighbor’s house has even more curb appeal than your own! Maybe you can’t afford a total repaint, but you can still walk around and do touch up. If the front door looks bland, consider adding a wreath! Bird-watching is a huge hobby in Eugene, so simple things like adding a bird feeder can go farther than you think!
If you are selling your home, keep in mind that the buyer will eventually see the inside as well, and you will want that to look taken care of too! I will post a blog soon with tips for your home’s interior and link it here soon!
Some articles will give you 40 ideas for boosting curb appeal, but I’m going to repeat my earlier sentiment of “aint nobody got time for dat”. Simple things will go a long way in making your house feel like a home to someone who doesn’t even live there. Even if you do not plan on selling, taking care of your home makes it a better place for you to live too! The only things you’ve got to lose are a few dandelions! If you hate to waste them, here are some fun dandelion recipes because why not!
Here at Sir Paints A Lot, we can help you with the top 3 tips in this article! Call us at 541-600-2025 or click HERE to book now! Thank You!
Some may carry tools in totes. Some may carry tools in bags. We don’t care about the outside. It is what’s on the inside that counts ;). Let’s take a peek inside and learn about some essential painting tools
A painter needs many tools but the specific tools required varies from one project to another, and sometimes from interior to exterior. Pressure washing an interior would be quite a sight to behold, but is unnecessary and would most likely require an insurance claim. Smaller, more basic tools are the highlight of this blog but I am working on another one to cover larger painting equipment as well. I will link that here soon!
1. Hammer and Nail Punch
One of the first things a painter will pull out of their tool bag is a hammer to pull out nails so they can have a smooth surface to paint on. A nail punch is sometimes needed for nails in trim which are protruding and need carefully tapped in.
2. Electrician Screwdriver
The absolute quickest way to remove all those outlet covers and light fixtures and all those other things with screws that need to come down before painting. If you have never used these before; prepare to be amazed. Regular old-fashioned screwdrivers will also suffice, however since many houses also have fixtures with all sorts of miscellaneous shaped screws or bolts, it is good to have a multi-bit screwdriver with various attachments. If you must be basic-be basic with your hammer instead. 😉
3. 5 in 1 Tool
This tool can also be used for pulling nails and hammering a nail punch; but a good philosophy to have with your paint tools is “Two is One and One is None”. It is Always good to have a backup option and the 5 in 1 tool will have your back! This tool is also great for scraping rough or raised spots out of drywall and for scraping peeling paint. Its other uses are for opening paint cans and cleaning excess paint from the roller.
4. Spackle and Putty Knife
Once you’ve used your other tools to get all the obstacles out of the way, it would be a great idea to smooth out all those nail holes and other small imperfections. Use a putty knife to smooth spackle into these spaces, taking care to not apply more than necessary to level out the hole. Mountains and Craters are both spectacular sights…but not when they’re on your wall texture…
5. Sanding Sponge or Sandpaper
Surfaces like doors and trim really need to have the shine buffed off before painting. A Scotch Pad is another option you can use for lightly scuffing a surface. It is also a good idea to smooth over areas you may have added spackle or patched drywall.
6. Surface Cleaner
After sanding there will be extra dust on the surfaces aside from the normal dust. It is essential to now clean these surfaces before painting. Unless a surface is particularly grimy; you can just use warm water and add a mild soap if necessary. Using a floor mop is an easy way to quickly reach the whole wall. For tougher spots like the crayon masterpiece on the living room wall or the kitchen wall behind the stove; a little TSP followed by a quick rinse is a good idea! Pay extra attention to window trim and door trim as these areas collect significant amounts of dust (as I am sure you noticed while sanding). Wipe them down good because you will need to mask these off later in order to paint. You will need them to be clean if you want your tape to stick. Which you do. Trust me.
7. Caulking Gun
You also need the caulk to go with this ;). Make sure you use a paint-able caulk! Caulk along unsightly seams where trim meets the wall and remember to smooth out your caulking bead with your finger or a rag as you go. This will prevent these areas from becoming even more unsightly. 😉
8. Masker and Tape
We love to use these masking tools. You can load them up with paper or plastic to quickly mask off any areas that need protected. Also note that you should sweep or vacuum along the floor trim in order for your painters tape to adhere properly.
9. Canvas Drop Cloths
If you leave any speck of floor showing; paint will land on it. Painter’s Law 😉
Use a paintbrush for cut in along where the wall meets the ceiling, the floor trim, the window trim, the door trim, and around any masked off fixtures etc. The most common brush size for this is 2.5 or 3 inches, however once you’ve got that down, a 4 inch brush can really increase your speed because it holds more paint but is still small enough to be precise with along these sorts of edges. Use whichever size you can be precise and efficient with!
11. Paint Roller
Use these systematically across the wall and make sure to back-roll for even coverage! These fluffy ones are obviously our favorites for most jobs! On larger jobs we will switch to the 18 inch rollers.
12. Extension Pole
An extension pole is a helpful tool for quickly being able to roll out a wall, especially so if the wall is a little on the tall side. You can also steal your wife’s broom handle and it will serve this purpose well…until you forget to return it to her and your kitchen does not get swept for 8 days….
13. Paint Tray
For smaller jobs use an average sized tray. For larger jobs, we love to use these 18 inch monstrosities. Some painters also like to use plastic liners in their paint trays for easy color switches and quicker clean-up.
14. Wire Brush
A very helpful tool for cleaning out your paintbrushes and getting any bits of dried paint off of them.
If you have made it this far without a ladder, congratulations on being a descendant of Goliath! The rest of us will likely need a ladder at some point. We recommend these ones as they are practical for both indoor and outdoor use.
Ok, Ok… not all of these tools actually fit “inside” the toolbox, but who doesn’t love a good cliche? Don’t answer that… Hopefully we have answered any questions you may or may not have had about a painter’s tools! And just because what’s on the outside matters a tiny bit….Here is where you can find our favorite tool box 😉